Myanmar: Restoring hope to families of the missing

I started my assignment on Myanmar in April 2023, and since arriving Yangon in May 2023, I was fortunate in the months that followed to visit other states and regions where we had offices and activities; Nay Pyi Taw, Mandalay, Lashio, Myitikyina and Sittwe. 

At the time I wrote this piece, it was just shy of two years since I arrived Myanmar and reflecting on my time there, there was a lot to say, as my mission was anything but straight forward. 

In 2021, a military coup happened and was widely covered. This coup has had far reaching consequences on the humanitarian landscape in Myanmar; limited access, a shrinking humanitarian space and uncertainty with operations given the security constraints.

With the intensification of the conflict in Myanmar since late 2023 and the resulting humanitarian consequences, many families lost contact with a loved one. Protection of Family Links (PFL) is a part of the Protection work we do at the ICRC. The goal is to provide answers to family members separated from their loved ones due to conflict, detention, migration or natural disasters. When we are able, we reunite families with missing loves ones, especially children. The part of reunification is always a joy to behold and to be part of.

Security considerations have changed drastically and visits to our offices are not as easy as they once were. It took me over a year to make it to Rakhine state for example, located in West Myanmar, where we have the biggest caseload for the programmes I oversee. As the plane landed on the wet runway during the cyclone season, finally! I thought to myself - I made it to Sittwe, this part of the country I had been trying to get to for over a year.

Places to Visit in Myanmar 2

 Continued...

In case you missed the previous post, you might find it useful, so here is the link

Bagan

The ancient city of Bagan in Myanmar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is considered to be significant in the history of Myanmar as that's where a good part of civilisation in the country started.

Lined with temples, stupas and pagodas, in burnt red bricks but also whitish and black ones, some of them date back to the 15th century. There are also the signature gold temples that you'll typically find everywhere in the country.

Places to Visit in Myanmar

Myanmar was once booming with tourism and was the next big thing in South East Asia (SEA). You would get such great deals at much cheaper than some other parts of SEA. It had people visiting in their droves until the military coup in 2021. The situation has changed significantly since then and has slowed many things down.

 

I moved to Myanmar for work in May 2023 and although I did not write much while I was there (better safe than sorry), I tried to see a bit of the country. 

See my first post on Myanmar in case you missed it Slowly Making My Way Around Myanmar

I took a few weekend trips around and discovered some beautiful places I think are worth sharing with you, in case you happen to visit that part of the world.

Ngwe Saung

Ngwe Saung is a beach resort area located about 238km from Yangon. It's a 5 hour drive without traffic but 6 hours realistically. I got there by public transport, by coach/bus. It was the only place in the country I was allowed to get to by public transport.

Reaching for the sun

Departure from Yangon from the pick up point was at 5:30am on a Friday and by 11am, I was settled in the hotel. I returned on Sunday and the pick up from the front of the hotel was at noon. By evening around 6pm, I was back home. 

Morning Walks in the Park

I go on walks early most mornings, in the park close to where I live.

With each passing day, on my morning walks, I get one more nod, one more smile, one more good morning. Different faces are now becoming familiar ones.

There are two older men who do not fail to call out, greeting good morning even before I spot them. A group of women do the same. Different people would smile, some say beautiful, some would nod and of course there are the ones who seem so grumpy and would not look at anyone but remain focused on their path. 

Occasionally you'll see young lovers, who cannot seem to get enough of one another. Hugging each other like the other person is about to disappear or kissing like their lives depend on it. I caught myself smiling at the two couples I saw this morning at different spots. I always wonder why they come out to the park so early, especially now with the heat. I digress...

There are women who sell different items, one sells breakfast packs, she would look up and greet me in their language each time. "Mingalarpar" she says so sweetly. Now, I greet her even before she notices me with that one word I know to say so well. The other one sells a local snack, she greets me with a wide smile and doesn't fail to add 'very beautiful'. The third one sells fruit, mostly papaya (pawpaw). I buy from her from time to time, so she points towards her fruit in case I am interested.

Many still stare at me in fascination. Children tug at their parents when they pass, in wonder of the difference I suppose. This morning was interesting, I was offered flowers by one of the older men and his wife. 

I had seen people with the same kind of flowers but didn't think much of it. The group of women also had flowers and were taking photos, they pulled me in for a photo. I saw the same flowers in the office with a colleague and asked her what they represented. According to her, normally these flowers bloom in April for the water festival but were late this year and have just started to bloom with the first rains.

And I slowly realise that I'm becoming part of the flora and fauna here. This place I currently call home.

NB - Mingalarpar is hello in Myanmar language

Slowly Making My Way Around Myanmar

I moved to Yangon, Myanmar, in May 2023. The Golden Land as it is called, is a country like no other, peculiar in many ways. I've heard some people still refer to the country as Burma which is the former name, but the name was changed to Myanmar in 1989. The people however, are still referred to as Burmese. 

One thing that stands out is how Burmese people are polite, they would not openly get annoyed as it is does not reflect well to openly express anger or irritation. Even when people struggle with something, you'll hardly get an outright NO. Losing face is something people would not do, so they might say okay or beat around the bush. In all that, you are 'not allowed' to lose your cool as it is not taken well :-) If you put too much pressure, they could shut you out. And you'd never hear a thing even if it were killing them. However, they are always eager to help when they can, which I think is sweet.

My arrival was anything but pleasant because of my nationality. I was treated shabbily and told clearly that it was because of my nationality, but I'll save that story for another day!

In speaking with people, I noticed not many people know of this country or where in Asia it is located. So I've put a map below for reference - see the red arrow? The flag is also beneath the map.

Flag below