Visiting Mauritania and Riding the Iron Ore Train

Mauritania is a country in Northwest Africa, a country very few get to visit. I've been told that I visit places normal people would hardly think of visiting. My travels take me off the beaten path and I'm happy to keep discovering. 

The Iron Ore Train was the reason I visited Mauritania and it was nice to discover a bit of the country. 

We arrived in Nouakchott, the capital, and we got visas on arrival - the visas cost $60. It is advisable to have cash, it was quick and efficient. As this was an organised group tour, we had a briefing on the evening of our arrival then headed out to dinner.

The following day, we wandered around and ended up at a fish market. I didn't feel unsafe at any time but you definitely need to be respectful of the religion and dress decently. They speak mostly Arabic, but French also, although not everyone can speak French.

Visiting the Saudi mosque in Nouakchott

When it comes to deserts, you can get lost in them! We did a few desert excursions and in general just spent time chilling in the sand dunes and drinking tea when it was available. They love their tea in Mauritania; there is whole ritual to the preparation and it is served in small glasses. 

Mauritanian Tea

We were taken to an oasis in Mhaireth, where some of us even swam. Then we spent a night camping in Terjit. 

Camp site in Terjit

Chilling in our tent

Ever heard of the ancient city of Chinguetti? It is a UNESCO World Heritage site, an old city with impressive architecture and ancient libraries. We visited one library and saw some really old books including one of the very first qurans. They were so old and delicate, touching them could make them fall apart. The keeper of the books tells some interesting stories on Mauritania while showing the books.

With Johnny Ward

Now to the main thing that took me to Mauritania - the government is trying to ban the iron ore train rides. I gathered that a few locals would jump between carriages while the train was moving and some deaths were recorded. No foreigner has died on the train. I was also told that there is a carriage for people but the thrill is to be outside on top of the iron ore. Leading up to the ride, we got these thin mattresses, sleeping bags and blankets as we were told of how cold it would get. Then it was a waiting game, we waited in Choum, in the sand dunes for the train to come through. There is no fixed time of when the train arrives, it could be anywhere from 5pm to midnight and I even heard of group who waited until the next morning for the train. 

The iron ore train in Mauritania is up to 3km (1.8 miles) in length and travels on a single track of 704km (437 miles). It has 200 - 300 freight carriages weighing up to a total of 84 tonnes, making it the heaviest and longest train in the world. The train is mainly to transport iron ore from the minning town of Zouerate to the port of Nouadhibou via Choum. It travels through the Sahara desert and we hopped on for the 12 hour ride through the night. We sat out back on the iron ore sand and it was freezing. Sleeping bags and blankets did us good.

The train is slow so when we saw the lights approaching, we knew to get ready. We drove to the tracks and once it stopped, we got on as quickly as we could, it was frantic as the train does not stop for long. When we got on, we tried to level some part of the sand by the edges of the carriages so they would i) be somewhat flat enough to lay out the mattresses to sleep and ii) not to get completely whipped by the sand, wind and iron ore. If you were in the middle of the carriage, on the iron ore sand, everything would come right to you. 

Can you spot my sleeping bag and blanket? 

On the iron ore sand, ready to go!

I shared the carriage with these fun people. We were missing one person, he was already asleep.

We were fully kitted, bundled up for the cold, including buffers for our necks and face, then ski goggles to keep the iron ore sand out of the eyes. It was all exciting and after the initial excitement, I managed to sleep for some hours. Then I woke up to the most stunning sun rise.

Giulia and I

The complete group of 5 of us. Stained faces with iron ore sand.

The carriages are huge and the train is solid!

Giulia, Johnny & I

Giulia, Ahmed (our amazing local guide) and I

I am possibly the first Nigerian to join in one of these expeditions, which the local and international tour operators pointed out to me.

We visited the ancient town of Chinguetti, went through Atar and Choum from where we took the train. We got off the train in Naoudhibou where we spent the night, then returned to Nouakchott. We were treated to grilled camel meat which was not bad and I tried a few local dishes. My favourite was elaish, which I think is made from millet, with fried minced meat in it.

The whole group

The trip was fascinating and off the beaten path. It was organised by Johnny Ward (read about him on his website here) who has visited every country in the world, has climbed the seven summits and reached both North and South Pole and done the Atlantic row, making him the first person ever to complete the Ultimate Explorers Grand Slam. He worked with a local travel company called Mauritania Desert Voyages.